LFW – the day one review

So Day one is done and the trends are actually hard to identify, but I will say that peachy tones and acquamarine are starting to become apparent. Here’s the lowdown!

Paul Costello

Paul never disappoints me in terms of feminity. But what is different this year is the edginess he has introduced and it’s quite refreshing. The show opened with beige tones and progressed to grey, white, peach and a dash of monochrome for good measure. In true Paul style, the mini remains a strong feature of this season’s collection (as it did last season). Fabrics have a sheen which adds a little life to the pieces. Shapes are wider, with cocoon jackets and dresses and with some bell sleeves, I think this collection has a lot more movement to it. Necklines bow to the Victorian neckline of this season and some lower lines for the warmer months. Pieces with a short sleeve are higher and have a little “puff” to them of which I am always a fan.

Felder Felder

The two lovely sisters who I interviewed last season, bring a new level of sexiness to this season’s collection. Necklines are lower, skirts are shorter and those of us who are not afraid of showing a little skin, will die for this collection. Chiffon dresses in monochrome prints, a little metallic fabric and suprisingly some black (reminds me of Mark Fast last season for some reason) make your eyes pop. A lot of movement in the pieces juxtaposed with mega tight mini dresses underpin the feminity of the collection (I know I’m using this word a lot, but it’s true) and the tie dye trend is still on form, but Felder Felder use orange as a new tone. The one is edge versus girl.

Maria Grachvogel

I have to say that this collection is a little uninteresting but still very sophisticated and I would expect no less from Maria. Lighter fabrics introduce more movement and the billowing effect coming down the catwalk was beautiful. The collection’s main pieces like, wide legged palazzo style pants and not to mention a nice balance of dresses and two pieces, make the collection well thought out in terms of what women like to wear. It’s a simple formula but it never fails. Going against the mini trend, Maria takes the hem to below the knee. The pieces are a bit safe but me likes.

 

Corrie Nielson

This one was a turn for the books in a departure from the traditional lighter colours of the new season; it opened with black. A much darker pallette is favoured by Corrie this season but it was met with some lovely tailoring. Like Paul Costello, there is a more cocoon like shape to dresses and a higher neckline.

 

 

 Bora Aksu

I wonder if Bora got the season’s a little confused. Models walked down an Autumnal insprired – leaf covered catwalk but the sheerness (if that’s a word) of the looks and the nude tones put me right. Bora lends himself well to structured pieces and the individual segments of the pieces and how they are meshed (literally) together prove this. But Bora introduces some bolder colours like orange, turquoise and black made me sit up somewhat. I’m not sure how “ready-to-wear” this collection is but I’m a fab of Bora Aksu and his design capabilities astound me.

 trends…

Orange, acquamarine/turqoise, the return of the cocoon and the unchanged status of monochrome, mini skirts and high necklines.

The review continues tomorrow…..

 

 

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