‘What is most beautiful in virile men is something feminine; what is most beautiful in feminine women is something masculine,’ as said by Susan Sontag was the key phrase which inspired Jenny Packham for her Spring Summer 2016 collection which debuted at New York Fashion Week yesterday afternoon.
The collection, balanced between the feminine and masculine, demonstrated Packham’s ability to design for all fashion preferences. Trouser suits with oversize spring prints contrasted against a more fluid, languine cut of evening gowns.
Sheer and high shine fabrics punctuated the more formal exits of the collection with my favourite being a full length shimmering silver gown (which also had long sleeves, another positive). But back to the trouser suit for a second, the showstopper was a black jacket and trouser combination with a red floral motif which I can see being worn on a red carpet in the not too distant future.
Modern icons were a source of inspiration including Mick Jagger, Patti Smith and Nick Cave, whose stellar fashion status in the 20th century have been reinvented in Packham’s new season.